Insieme, June 22, 2007

Insieme
Michelangelo Hotel
777 7th Ave.

So since it's Friday, we'll do a quick review of a quick lunch.



Location
Can you get any more convenient. This is a much welcome addition to Times Square for both tourists and business folks alike. The foot traffic is remarkable and will keep people walking in the door.

Decor
Despite what Bruni and others think, I like the decor. Well, most of it. The wood work with the angular cuts close to the ceiling are nice, I loved the chairs and the leather bench seats were very comfortable. The tables and dinnerware was fine as well. I didn't even mind the stringy, flapperesque curtains. But what in the world were they thinking with their choice of flowers. Lily's of this variety = funerals. The smell, the look, everything about them reminds me of funerals. And then because the colors of the restaurant are muted shades of gray, white, black and brown, it brings the place down. The person who suggested those flowers should get a serious lecture about floral arrangements. Blech. Oh, and watch your step upon entry. That's going to cause some problems. And is it not handicap accessible because of that step?


Service
Waitstaff (Cassie was my waitress) seemed cheerful and seems to know her stuff. The bussers and water fillers and such were simply drones. Not sure I like the whole tucked-in tie look, but the uniform (blue shirts, blue pin-striped pants and a blue, white (and navy?) tie was sharp. Food came out in good order, ice water filled regularly and the bread/olive oil service was nice.

Food
Pretty good and a decent value. I ordered a small plate of the lasagne ($12) from the traditional side of the menu. To quote Platt from New York Magazine, it was served with six layers of spinach pasta interspersed with a Bolognese ragù and a melting béchamel. I thought it was very good overall but seemed to be missing something. Just one thing, but I can't put my finger on what. Platt's extra star for the lasagne seems a little strange...I think a lasagne without fresh ricotta (from DiPalo's) isn't a lasagne, but what do I know.


For my entree, I went with the barramundi. A good dish that made me truly appreciate the amadai I had at L'Atelier yesterday. Meaning that if Canora's fish was well cooked, then what I got from Robuchon was etherial. That being said, the tomatoes, artichokes and other accompaniments to the dish were delicious and were well placed.

Insieme reminds me of L'Impero in many ways. Actually, it's like the middle child of a family who's kids also include L'Impero and Alto. Good food that doesn't have to get better. With the reasonable price points, great location, lack of competition in the neighborhood and competent dishes it already serves - it doesn't need to do better. An instant standby. It would be a mistake to try and make it more that what it already is.